How I (Eventually) Became a Sparkling Winemaker — #1

Penny Gadd-Coster Inspecting Grapevines

Winemaker Penny Gadd-Coster describes how she eventually became a sparkling winemaker following two surprising previous careers. 

Why Penny?

She helped make “small grower sparkling wine” possible! As head winemaker for Rack and Riddle, she was the person behind the sparkle for many small wineries that now have a way to make Methode Champenoise sparkling wines. Prior to the creation of Rack and Riddle, making bubbles was only practical for large wine companies.

Penny has been involved in sparkling wine since 1987 when she joined Jordan Vineyards, eventually becoming sparkling winemaker at J Vineyards. She joined Rack and Riddle in 2007, and in addition to overseeing winemaking operations for hundreds of their clients, she also personally crafts the sparkling wines for their brand as well as for Breathless Wines and most recently her own brand, Pénélope, offered through Naked Wines. I cannot imagine the number of bottles of sparkling wine Penny has touched in her career. I’m willing to bet you have one in your fridge right now.

Here is Part 1 of my conversation with Penny.

My Two Careers Before Wine 

Vicky

I was amazed to learn you had two very different occupations before getting into wine – doing research projects at a government laboratory and then working in the medical field in an emergency room. How in the world did you get into sparkling wine?

Penny

I went to high school in Livermore, California, a winemaking area and had friends whose families were involved in wine. I was interested in wine and eventually got my husband interested, too. When we were living in Southern California, we came to Sonoma to visit the wineries. I even tried making wine and kept it in the closet. It was a disaster! We threw the whole thing away.

“I even tried making wine and kept it in the closet. It was a disaster! We threw the whole thing away.”

Despite that, we talked about abandoning our careers and doing something completely different. We had fallen in love with Sonoma County, and we said, “let’s see what we can do.” We put our house on the market and it sold in two weeks. We figured that was a sign. We packed up and moved and my husband went back to school to learn vineyard management and I went to work in an emergency room as a nurse assistant.

After we got settled, I got a harvest job at Jordan Vineyards and Winery working in the lab, which evolved into a full-time role after harvest. At that same time, John Jordan had decided to launch a sparkling brand called J Vineyards and that was my introduction to sparkling wines.

Lessons Learned in My Career 

Vicky

Wow, what timing! I think J was only the fourth locally owned sparkling wine house in Northern California at the time (Korbel was founded in 1882, Schramsberg in 1965 and Iron Horse in 1976). The other sparkling wineries were all owned by European producers. You got in at a great time and it led to a 35-year career in sparkling wine. Looking back now at your multifaceted career, what are the most important lessons you’ve learned?

Penny

Follow your heart. I landed here because the opportunity came up and I went for it. I kept moving forward. Don't be afraid to travel down a path that might not be traditional.

“I was told I could never be a winemaker.”

The other lesson I learned is never give up. I was told many times and by many people that I would never be a winemaker. People didn’t think women should be in the cellar. The work was too physical. I thought that was the weirdest thing I ever heard!

By this time, it was the year 2000, and there still weren’t many women in the cellar. It was thought that women in the wine industry could be lab techs or oenologists but not winemakers. The other thing I had against me was that I didn’t go to Davis, but honestly, I think that was just a convenient excuse.

But I didn’t give up. I’m one of those people if you tell me I can’t do it then I’m going to work harder at it. I’m going to show you that I can. And I did. Who knew this person 35 years ago who started out as crush help would ever become an Executive Director of Winemaking?

Penny Gadd-Coster In Front of Wine Tanks

What I Wish Everyone Knew About Sparkling Wine

“Have it with everything! Or you don’t have to have it with anything.”

Vicky

You’ve been behind the scenes of hundreds of wine brands producing tens of millions of cases of sparkling wine over the course of your career. I know you also love to drink it. What do you wish everyone knew about sparkling wine?

Penny

Have it with everything! When I first got into sparkling wine, the notion was it was only for holidays or special occasions. It's perfect with a grilled steak. Why have a heavy red when you can have this nice, light bubbly? Or have it by the pool with your potato chips.

It’s the perfect food wine. You can have it as an aperitif. It’s fun to make it into a cocktail. Have it with your main course. Then pull out a rose or a brut at the end of the meal and maybe add some Ratafia to pair it with dessert.

People still think I’m kidding. Then they come back and say, “I did a roast in the oven and some roasted potatoes and had it with a Brut and it was amazing.”

Or you don’t have to have it with anything. It’s great to have a bottle of bubbles in your fridge. I come home from work, I pop open that bottle and how happy I am!  One of my favorite things to do is sit on the front porch and just sit there, with my glass of bubbles. It’s so perfect.

All images courtesy of Rack & Riddle

Check out all my conversations with Penny Gadd-Coster